For the fanatic only (Istanbul 6)...

Another early morning run today through the almost deserted streets and parks of this lovely city. I read in my Rough Guide to Istanbul that, "The vast majority of Istanbullu have little interest in running for it's own sake". It describes running in the city as "a pastime for the fanatic only". Judging by the bemused looks I get, I'd agree; it's not something that has fully embedded itself in the culture here, as it has in the UK. However, that doesn't explain the electronic clatter of a dozen cameras belonging to a party of Japanese tourists that were aimed in my direction near the Blue Mosque - if only I'd known, I'd've worn my best shorts.

After breakfast I made my way, by a rather full tram, to Kabatas and then a short walk in searing heat to the Dolmabahçe Palace. This palace, built in the mid 19th Century, replaced the Topkapi Palace in becoming the Sultan's main residence in Istanbul. It is a magnificent example of Western architecture of the period (baroque, rococo & neo-classical) with a waterside frontage of over 500m. After donning a pair of silly looking pink overshoes to protect the carpets and parquet flooring, we were taken on a gruelling 2 hour guided tour.

The guide started by proudly stating that anything we saw on the tour coloured yellow is gilt. We saw a lot of yellow. In addition, we saw a lot of crystal too. On closer inspection it all looked a little tired and tarnished. Despite all this, you cannot fail to be impressed with the palace and especially by the Ceremonial Room, with it's four ton crystal chandelier. If I'd known, I'd've brought a can of Pledge; it must be a bugger to dust - especially in this heat.

A short hop by tram to Tophane and Istanbul Modern. The tram journey itself was a short hop but, getting off the tram, my guide book took me in the opposite direction to where I needed to go. I eventually called into a rather ornate police station for help with directions. By now it must have been 30C plus and I was poaching in my own sweat as I crawled past the numerous nargile cafés that seem to have flourished in this area. Set in a stylishly revamped warehouse on the water's edge, Istanbul Modern houses the city's modern art collection. I especially liked the exhibition on the entrance level telling the story of Turkish modern art since the late 19th Century.

Make sure you visit the terraced café on the same level before you leave:  uber chic! Whilst there today, a huge Cunard liner manoeuvred itself up the Bosphorus to dock at a nearby quay, obliterating the café's wonderful waterside view of Sultanahmet, the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus completely. No doubt, a fleet of coaches awaited to ferry its passengers on a whistle stop tour of the city, returning them to the ship for dinner tonight and onwards to their next port.

I left Istanbul Modern for the Kariye Museum by mid afternoon, getting a tram to Aksaray, then walking the kilometre or so to the metro station. Two stops on the metro and I got out at Ulubatli, where I noticed an LED display showing the temperature at 37C. From here it's another kilometre's stroll along the Theodosian Walls before you reach the Kariye Museum. The walls were built by Emperor Theodosius II in 413AD as the city's main land defence. They seemed to focus the heat as I staggered along their length. They're in a sad state after over 1,500 years of wear and tear (and a sadder state again after the earthquake of 1999).

The Kariye Museum is hidden a little distance (and one hair-raising, life-in-your-own-hands road crossing and some windy back streets to confuse you) from the walls and not that well sign posted. However, I eventually found it. Originally constructed in the 12th Century on the site of a much older church as the Church of St Saviour in Chora. The mosaics and frescoes are beautiful; stunning actually. However, it was well worth the entrance fee today just to get out of the sun.

A glass of çay at a nearby café afterwards helped fortify me before my mammoth trek back. Incidentally, for all of you that have always wanted to try a little frotteurism (look it up), you might want to start by having a play on the trams in this city. I've used public transport in a number of cities and nothing gets as intimate as an Istanbul tram at rush hour.

For the fanatic only, eh?